Dress Alterations

Over the weekend, I finished altering a dress for a friend.

I’ve altered dresses for myself many a time, but this was the first time I had altered a dress for a friend since a dear friend’s wedding 12 years ago.

As always, I talked over my sewing plans with my neighbor, who was a seamstress in her day. She convinced me to leave the excess fabric in the seam allowances just in case the dress needed to be altered again. Once trimmed, the fabric is gone forever. So, I left the extra fabric in the side seams, but still trimmed the shoulder strap, so it wouldn’t be too bulky.

It was fun to work on a dress without having to labor over it for 4 months and ignore my family for the last 2 weeks.


(Elly wanted in on the photo shoot).

Now to tackle the pile of jeans on my ironing board and the massive amount of fabric required for the curtains.

The Dresses

Each dress brought its own challenges to the table.

Elly’s dress was the dress of a thousand curves.

To ensure accuracy, I hand basted each curve before zipping it through the machine. Only the straight side seams of the skirt were not hand basted first. Although it took extra time up front, it was worth it because it kept the slippery taffeta fabric from shifting and potentially ruining the gentle curve of each seam. Once sewn, the curves had to be clipped, notched, pressed open, pressed up and then topstitched. It was a lot of work, especially when you realize that this dress is completely reversible so everything had to be done twice. The one shortcut I did take on this dress was to not finish the seams. I am normally a stickler for finishing seams, but I saw no point in doing it on this dress. Nobody is going to see them. The tulle in between the skirts even hides the hem.

My dress was the dress of a few thousand hand stitches.

The purple taffeta fabric was hand basted to the cotton underlining. The bodice lining was hand stitched to the outer shell. The waist stay was hand stitched to the bodice. The hem was hand stitched down. At one point, I had blood on my fingertips from all the needle punctures.

Hands down these were the most complicated dresses I have made to date. Together they took over 4 months to make.

Elly’s dress was completely underlined. It made the taffeta easy to work with and it made it strong enough to withstand the hand sequin work and the oodles of embroidered topstitching. On the other hand, only the bodice of my dress was underlined; the circle skirt was left free.

My dress was a compilation of 2 patterns. The bodice was from Gertie’s Bombshell dress class on Craftys. The circle skirt was from The Party Dress book. Amazingly, the patterns matched perfectly.

Elly’s pattern came from Sewing Clothes that Kids Love book. It’s the Manhattan pattern.

Slight fitting adjustments were made to both patterns. Otherwise, I followed the directions as directed.

To make beautiful dresses, you need beautiful fabric.  I didn’t skimp. The purple fabric was a bridal irridescent taffeta from Denver Fabrics. The overlay on my dress was a sequined tulle purchased on our trip to Mexico last year. The appliques on Elly’s dress were fussy cut out of the tulle and then hand stitched down. As mentioned above, I also used cotton underlining. The dresses were completely lined. Cotton was used in the bodice for its breathability whereas polyester lining fabric was used for the skirt for its silkiness.

The effort was worth it. I loved the results! I loved all the compliments on how pretty Elly looked in her “princess” dress. Is that wrong?


But now that the dresses are done, I plan to take a well deserved break. I just want to sit, drink a glass of port and play a board game with Dan in the evening rather than rush to squeeze in another hour of sewing.

Dress Update, Final Days

A small celebration, by way of a trip to Friendlys, took place this weekend in honor of Elly’s dress being completed.


No sooner had it been completed, I turned my attention to my own dress. Thankfully, it’s a much easier dress to construct.

Or rather, all the fiddly details, like the steel boning, have already been completed. All that is left to be done is add a zipper, install the bodice lining and hem the dress.

Unfortunately, sickness is slowing down my progress. Elly hasn’t been sleeping well and the night is when I usually get most of my sewing work done.

Tomorrow Elly will go play at a friend’s house and I will get 3 hours of uninterrupted time. Here’s hoping it’s all I need.

(Full details of Elly’s dress as well as my own will be published after the wedding).

Dress Update, week 2

The lining for Elly’s dress is finished!

The bodice was made with a medium weight cotton. The skirt was made with a lightweight polyester lining fabric.

Despite the fact that nobody outside the few who read this blog will see the inside of the dress, I took the time to hand baste in the skirt sections and to topstitch with the fancy flower motif. One day, she may want to wear the dress inside out.

Now she can.

Update: Dan mentioned that the inside of the dress resembled a Snow White dress. So, you might be looking at Elly’s Halloween outfit. What do you think?

Elly’s Bodice Completed

Not to toot my own horn here, but can I tell you how pleased I am with how the bodice came out?

It’s better than I imagined it would be.

Sure it was annoying with the 14 pattern pieces that had to be stitched together and not one of them being a straight edge. It was further exasperated by the fact that I hand basted all the seams first because I didn’t trust my machine or my sewing ability to keep the seam lines matched up.

Yes, it took me forever to hand tack the flowers and leaves to the taffeta fabric. It also took twice as long as running a straight stitch to add in the fancy gold flower motif that you see on all the edges.

But who cares? Machiavelli, baby! The end justifies the means.

Now to sew up the skirt.

Elly’s 2nd Muslin

Ever am I glad that I chose to make a 2nd muslin for Elly’s (untraditional) flower girl dress. Though the belly darts still allowed for a perfect fit around the waist, Elly had grown so much (since March!) that the bodice was ridiculously short on her. The 1.5 inches I had taken out of the straps had to be let back in.

With the wedding 3 months away, I am terrified that Elly will shoot up again and the dress will once again be too short for her.

I don’t want to wait till the last minute to sew Elly’s dress. My nerves will snap under the pressure. I know me. I’m likely to make some stupid error and weep in despair.

I also don’t want to use buttons for future growth such as you would see on overalls. It would take away from the elegance of the dress.

At this point, I plan to leave a generous seam allowance and just check the fit a week before the day of the wedding. A week should be enough time to make a quick alteration. Another option would be to make the next size up, the size for 7-8 year olds. It just seems absurdly large for my daughter who will only be 2.5 years old. Elly is a big girl, it’s true, but she’s not that big!

Is there a better option? I’m open to suggestions!

Sewing Progress Slowed by Game Night

Progress has been slow on sewing a muslin for my dress. I blame Bananagrams and Can’t Stop. Dan and I have been playing one or the other almost every night after Elly goes to bed.

The first time we played Bananagrams, it took forever. We never finished it before bedtime. To stack the odds in our favor of completing future games, we upped the number of tiles “Peel”ed to 2 rather than the recommended one. We both lost the first game we finished. Both of us had words that aren’t in any dictionary. I had added a ‘y’ to joker, making jokery. It looked good, but it’s not a word. Dan had ‘sog’ and ‘qi’. He tried to sell me on ‘qi’ and I almost believed him. Then, when he was looking up ‘sog’ because I swore I had never seen such a word, he realized that not only was ‘sog’ not a word, but ‘qi’ was not either. Too funny!

Can’t Stop is a game that Dan printed out on our printer. To give the board a bit more stability, he then pasted it to a piece of cardboard using modge podge.

As usual, Dan wins almost every game we play. Maybe when he’s older, he’ll become senile and I can start winning a few games here and there. One can dream, right?