Dress Alterations

Over the weekend, I finished altering a dress for a friend.

I’ve altered dresses for myself many a time, but this was the first time I had altered a dress for a friend since a dear friend’s wedding 12 years ago.

As always, I talked over my sewing plans with my neighbor, who was a seamstress in her day. She convinced me to leave the excess fabric in the seam allowances just in case the dress needed to be altered again. Once trimmed, the fabric is gone forever. So, I left the extra fabric in the side seams, but still trimmed the shoulder strap, so it wouldn’t be too bulky.

It was fun to work on a dress without having to labor over it for 4 months and ignore my family for the last 2 weeks.


(Elly wanted in on the photo shoot).

Now to tackle the pile of jeans on my ironing board and the massive amount of fabric required for the curtains.

Elly’s 2nd Muslin

Ever am I glad that I chose to make a 2nd muslin for Elly’s (untraditional) flower girl dress. Though the belly darts still allowed for a perfect fit around the waist, Elly had grown so much (since March!) that the bodice was ridiculously short on her. The 1.5 inches I had taken out of the straps had to be let back in.

With the wedding 3 months away, I am terrified that Elly will shoot up again and the dress will once again be too short for her.

I don’t want to wait till the last minute to sew Elly’s dress. My nerves will snap under the pressure. I know me. I’m likely to make some stupid error and weep in despair.

I also don’t want to use buttons for future growth such as you would see on overalls. It would take away from the elegance of the dress.

At this point, I plan to leave a generous seam allowance and just check the fit a week before the day of the wedding. A week should be enough time to make a quick alteration. Another option would be to make the next size up, the size for 7-8 year olds. It just seems absurdly large for my daughter who will only be 2.5 years old. Elly is a big girl, it’s true, but she’s not that big!

Is there a better option? I’m open to suggestions!

Elly Models My First Muslin

Of all the dresses I’ve sewn, I’ve never made a muslin first. I would just cut out the pattern size closest to my bust, waist and hip measurements. Then, I sewed the dress in its entirety and hoped for the best. Sometimes it worked great. Sometimes it didn’t.

Lately, I started reading some really great sewing blogs. Which reminds me, I need to update my blog roll. Time and again the authors of these sewing blogs would mention that they sewed a muslin first before cutting out the expensive fabric they purchased. Though the fabric I purchased for our dresses isn’t terribly expensive, it’s not cheap and I would prefer to not have to buy more.

Based on Elly’s chest measurement, I traced out a size 5T/6. It’s true Elly is tall for her age, but she is not the height of a 5 year old. Assuming the bodice would need shortening and not wanting to make such adjustments on the fancy fabric, I made a muslin of it. The skirt I was unconcerned about. I can always make the hem deeper. Plus, the width of the skirt doesn’t really matter since it is gathered.

I was right. The straps needed to be 1 inch shorter. What I didn’t anticipate was how tight the bodice was in the waist. I had forgotten about Elly’s big belly.

It took slashing the front bodice piece and adding 2.5 inches to keep the bodice from being skin-tight over her belly.

It’s a good thing Elly is only 2 years old. I don’t think she will appreciate me divulging such personal information when she is 13. Ha!

The other thing I learned from the muslin was how to put the pattern pieces together. I mucked it up in the first picture. I attached the shoulder straps next to the side seams when they are supposed to be shifted over a few inches. Nice to figure that out on cheap muslin.

So, I’m a convert. I’ll be making a muslin of my bodice as well.

Next, I have to wash the gorgeous fabric (pictures coming soon), take a very deep breath and cut out all the pattern pieces for Elly’s dress.